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Post by eklee on Aug 8, 2004 15:30:47 GMT -7
I have been running my engines with SIG 5/25 fuel and my engines sure show it with castor caked cylinder head and fins.
Is there a way of cleaning the castor off WITHOUT disassembling the engines? I don't want to disturb the P/S fit.
Thanks in advance.
Eric
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Post by Garf on Aug 8, 2004 17:06:18 GMT -7
Most people use the Crockpot/Antifreeze method. Some of the brake cleaner sprays will dissolve castor, but they will also dissolve your lungs.
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Post by downunder on Aug 8, 2004 18:26:08 GMT -7
I used to use the aluminium (not steel) spray on saucepan cleaner which was fantastic but it seems to have disappeared from the supermarket shelves. I've heard that carb cleaner may do the trick but I haven't tried it myself yet.
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Post by StuntMaster on Aug 8, 2004 19:19:02 GMT -7
1) Buy or steal an old crock pot.
2) Place one or several engines, with backplates removed, in the pot.
3) Plug in and set on low.
4) Pour in enough Anti freeze to cover.
5) Put lid in place and come back in one or two days.
6) Clean engines with running water.
7) Place on cookie sheet in 200 deg oven till dry.
8) Remove from oven and lube and reassemble when cool.
9) Save the old antifreeze. It is good for many, many cleanings.
Some guys have personal variations, but this is what works for me. 25 engines so far with 0% damage and no problems with piston liner fits.
SM
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Post by eklee on Aug 9, 2004 4:04:55 GMT -7
Thanks for all your advices. I'll do the antifreeze method.
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Post by exrafbod on Aug 9, 2004 6:59:11 GMT -7
Cheaper than buying a crockpot...... Get some Demon Clean from your local hobby store. You can paint it on without dis-assembly. Read the write-up from www.cooperfuels.comWorks. |
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Post by StuntMaster on Aug 9, 2004 10:46:45 GMT -7
What?!
If you need something cheaper than a $2.00, garage sale Crock Pot (That you can reuse forever.) and some cheap anti-freeze, you really need a new hobby!
My total cost for the setup came to about the same price as a good wooden prop. Less really.
Can you really clean 25+ filthy engines with a can of Demon Clean? You must know something that the rest of us have overlooked.
SM
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Post by highflyinguy on Aug 9, 2004 13:49:43 GMT -7
EKlee, If you use StuntMasters method, and I have with great results, don't forget to oil up that puppy when reassembling and again when it's fully assembled, just as if you had run it. I use after run oil (Marvel Air Tool Oil).
One other suggestion is if you can find it, try Sierra antifreeze, it's very enviromentaly friendly, less toxic fumes.
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Post by Swordsman18 on Aug 12, 2004 6:06:12 GMT -7
EKlee, If you use StuntMasters method, and I have with great results, don't forget to oil up that puppy when reassembling and again when it's fully assembled, just as if you had run it. I use after run oil (Marvel Air Tool Oil). One other suggestion is if you can find it, try Sierra antifreeze, it's very enviromentaly friendly, less toxic fumes. A couple of other caveats: The antifreeze (standard Prestone glycol type, green in color) will dissolve away *anything* that isn't metal. That means *paint* and *plastics*. Never subject nylon throttle arms, plastic gaskets (paper is fine) or O-rings etc. to the crock pot treatment, as they will be ruined. I have also heard that glo plug elements will be damaged as well. As for paint, being able to remove it so easily is a feature, not a bug. I do a lot of old McCoy engines, and the antifreeze takes the paint off the cylinder heads down to clean, bright aluminum. The paint rinses off under running water with no scrubbing required, although you can use a tooth brush if you like. It is then a trivial matter to repaint with Duplicolor Ford Red (#1605) engine block paint (Murray's Auto Parts) for a perfect restoration. I use the Duplicolor primer under it for improved adhesion. My wife can't tell the difference in shade between the original and the repaint (I have some color blindness, so I'm not entitiled to an opinion!). I just finished cleaning up the worst looking of several McCoy 35 red heads I scored at Toledo this past April, and it frankly looks new. Great compression too, so chalk up another "runner" for my flying fun, for under $20. I'm using black finished 4-40 socket head cap screws (1/4" and 7/8") from McMaster Carr (http:\\www.mcmaster.com) to replace the original bolts which have always been chewed up or replaced with straight slots (UGH!). Makes for a really nice looking restoration. Seems that putting lipstick on a pig really can make it look better! |
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