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Post by zekemccoy on Aug 14, 2004 14:42:40 GMT -7
Any experience with polyurethane gorilla glue? Fuel-proof? Styrofoam compatibility?
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JACO
New arrival
Posts: 6
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Post by JACO on Aug 14, 2004 20:28:59 GMT -7
I have used Gorilla glue and found it to be safe on foam and fuel proof at least 10% nitro with no holding problems.
You may want to make note that the polyurethane glue will expand at least 3 times it's size. I once put too much in a foam wing and overnight the glue expanded and popped through the surface, looking real ugly, dried hard crusty stuff. I simply cut it off and put monokote over it and I was the only one knowing this.
Paul Heimgaertner
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Post by faif2d on Aug 15, 2004 5:00:24 GMT -7
If you have big gaps the foam will fill it but will not be real strong. Works real good other than that. Get the smallest size you can I have not been able to seal the leftovers so they would not harden in the bottle.
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Post by Dzlstunter on Aug 15, 2004 9:10:49 GMT -7
I have used it in several "general shop" applications, and where it adheres to the materials, it seems quite good. If a foam wing is broken cleanly, for example, I have been able to use a brush to wet one side with water, then spread the glue thinly on the other side, shove the two together, weight it so they don't push apart, and come back to a fully-filled and tight joint. As to storage, I have the small bottle and have been able to keep it liquid by cleaning the nozzle, then carefully squeezing the bottle after use to force all the air out of the it before tightly reapplying the cap. It's the moisture in the air which kicks off the glue, so you have to keep it out. It's worked so far, and I live in a humid environment. No clue on fuel-proof yet. Good luck, Dzl
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Post by tperry2054 on Aug 15, 2004 12:46:16 GMT -7
Another way to keep the glue from going bad is to invert it and let it skim over on the bottom. Squeeze out the air before capping and inverting.
I soaked a hardwood joint over night in 40%nitro fuel and when I broke it the wood broke, not the joint.
Tom
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Post by ferocious on Aug 17, 2004 5:19:01 GMT -7
the polyurethane glues are very good, strong, fuel proof.
Inverting the bottle, once it's been opened, seems to work well for me. I drilled a hole in a block of wood to hold the cap. A little volcano of used glue builds up around it, but the glue in the bottle stays liquid.
Elmer's Probond also works well. It doesn't foam up as much and takes about 4 hrs toset instead of 2. You can make it foam a lot by adding a few drops of water and mixing it up.
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Post by highflyinguy on Aug 18, 2004 13:40:38 GMT -7
I used Gorilla glue on the motor mount wood, on a Phyco Slow Stick, after 3 laps with a Fox 25 doing the work, the whole front end came off in mid air. Luckyly no damage to plane ( due to nice glide in , surprisingly) or other private property. Its good stuff but I'll never use it in the motor mount area again. Jerry
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Post by RetNavySuppo on Aug 18, 2004 17:45:52 GMT -7
I have had no luck on a certain type of hardwood joint with a PU glue (Elmer's Probond). I was rebuilding someone else's Proctor Antic Bipe. You C/L types might not know what that is. It is a model of a "sort-of" pre-WWI biplane. The rear fuselage is an open framework of spruce longerons and spruce crossmembers forming "T" joints. None of the glues in my extensive "glue arsenal" held this type of joint very well. I read rave reviews about PU glues and decided to try it out. No joy. The joints using this PU glue were weaker than several of the other adhesives I tried. And yes, I followed the instructions and also tried every variation of its use that I was able to read about. So I had to invent my own "semi-dowelling procedure" (which works great). Anyone want a barely used container of Elmer's Probond? It's free, you pay for shipping.
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