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Post by Garf on Oct 29, 2006 20:13:06 GMT -7
The ARF Nobler has the same tank as the Tutor II. The first run on the Tutor II may have destroyed an engine by going dead lean for the last 10 laps. I have decided to create my own tank, a version of the same "Garf" clunk tank I have had so much success with on my profiles. This time, the base for the tank is a Kap-Pak T-14 5.25 oz rectangular tank. I don't think I am going to need that much fuel, but the nice thing about this type of tank is that you can short fill the tank as needed. My apologies for the lack of pictures, but when ATT decided to "streamline" Worldnet out of existance, it took all my pictures with it. I will try to restore some over time.   |
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Post by Garf on Oct 29, 2006 20:29:44 GMT -7
First step is to remove the vents and feed line. The twin vents are flanged and only come out from the inside. Then remove the rear cover. Then solder over the holes. Drill a hole in the front cover for the new feed line. Attach a flexible fuel line and clunk weight to the original feed line, or a pipe of your choice. Insert the line from the rear thru the hole in the front cover. Adjust the position of the feed line to place the clunk weight in the proper position and solder the line to the front cover. Place the vents to suit your plumbing arrangements. Cut the feed line just short enough to allow tank installation.
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Post by Garf on Nov 26, 2006 16:46:25 GMT -7
I have the tank mounted to my Tutor 2 ARF to test it before installing it into the Nobler. It doesn't give a smooth cutoff at the end of the flight.
It sags for a couple of laps before quitting. I have no idea why. Maybe running muffler pressure would help.
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Post by Garf on Dec 3, 2006 16:44:37 GMT -7
I tried it today with the rear end of the tank shimmed out. It worked too well. It quit without warning in a horizontal 8 and crashed. Minimal damage.
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Post by jehold66203 on Dec 21, 2006 9:23:55 GMT -7
That is what I really like about flying the AMA pattern. But, at Tulsa this year my ARF Oriental(rebuilt) with Brodak 40 would quit in first loop of the clover. After getting home I got mad at the engine after putting in bigger tank and leaned it out. No more problems other than I am now on 65 foot lines again. Another thing is get a count down timer you can hear and fly level after timer goes off. DOC Holliday
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Post by Garf on Jul 5, 2007 21:29:02 GMT -7
This thing seems to run pretty well in the Nobler. It doesn't give a clean cuttoff, but it isn't too bad.
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Bill
New arrival
Posts: 5
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Post by Bill on Oct 16, 2007 21:35:32 GMT -7
This thing seems to run pretty well in the Nobler. It doesn't give a clean cuttoff, but it isn't too bad. I found in a similar set up (rectangular tank with uniflow plumbing) that muffler pressure really smoothed out the shut off. |
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Post by bikemike on Oct 17, 2007 15:18:38 GMT -7
I used the kit tank and made it a uniflow by sodering a tube to the clunk. Works great.
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Post by flightstreak on Dec 27, 2007 15:02:37 GMT -7
Make sure you change the plastic hinges to dubro or better,and double front firewall with 1/16 plywood
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Post by Garf on Jun 4, 2008 8:56:40 GMT -7
I just tore the landing gear mount out of my Nobler. Back to the drawing board.
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Post by sleepygomez on Jun 9, 2009 12:32:11 GMT -7
Hi Garf, don't drill a hole in a tank. Use a sharp ice pick. You may want to grind it to the size of the selected tubing. That way there are not shards of metal falling in the tank. Makes clean up easier.
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Post by Garf on Aug 16, 2011 17:51:04 GMT -7
Make sure you change the plastic hinges to dubro or better,and double front firewall with 1/16 plywood I used 1/8" ply to bracket the mounts, then 1/64" on the rest of the firewall. The hinges they supply now are far superior to what they supplied on the first one. |
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